Culprit Stinger
Rigged with a CopperHead™ hook, the Stinger can be fished as a slow-falling bait or as a “sinking” jerk-bait. The CopperHead securely holds the lure, even in cover.

The Culprit Stinger is awesome for both Largemouth and Smallies too. The Daiichi Bleeding Bait, Catch & Release Wacky Hook makes releasing these voracious feeders easier. The hook is impaled behind an ordinary o-ring which makes the lures last even longer.
Tip: DON’T set the hook! The hook will set itself.

Bass tend to clamp down on the lure AND the large worm weight used to plow through the grass. The result is a short fight to the water’s surface and then the Bass lets go of the weight. You can often see teeth marks on the sinker after losing the fish. Veteran Flipping Pros are switching back to the old Tru-Turn Brute® Worm hook. The cam-action rotates towards pressure for solid hook-ups. Combine that trick with the slim profile of the Culprit Flippin Craw and you’ll land more fish.

Rigging Options - Jerk Shad

Here’s more proof the Jerk Shad is the most versatile lure you can fish. This Jerk Shad is rigged as a top-water, popping lure. The Betts, Carolina Floater™ is pegged backwards and secured with a toothpick or rubber band. Think of it as a weedless top-water lure.

This is the answer to those short striking fish after a cold front. Just ‘skin hook’ the Jerk Shad with the XPoint, XGap Hook, slip on the Daiichi Bleeding Bait Treble™ and secure the top of the treble into the bait.

The Jerk Shad rigged with Aaron Marten’s Rollin’ Runner™ will get down to deep fish, that crankbaits won’t reach and with a
s-l-o-w-e-r retrieve too.

The Culprit Pro Frog and the original CopperHead hook are a deadly combination.
The Pro Frog’s wider beam allows you to fish it slower while the Bleeding Bait-CopperHead draws strikes directly to the hook.
The bend on the hook front allows it to penetrate the plastic quicker also acts as a skid plate for hopping over grass.